TL;DR
- Quarterly washing of frames, glass, drainage holes, and trickle vents matters more than how often you clean the glass alone. Mild soapy water and microfibre cloths are almost all that most homes need; avoid abrasives, ammonia, bleach, and pressure washers.
- Each material has its own demands. uPVC and aluminium need quarterly cleaning only; engineered timber needs refinishing every five to seven years to prevent rot at vulnerable corners.
- Diagnose condensation by location. Inside the room is a ventilation issue, outside the glass is high performance working as designed, and only between the panes points to a failed sealed unit needing replacement at £150 to £400.
- Lubricate hinges with silicone spray, lock cylinders with graphite powder, and address minor seal or hardware issues promptly. A £15 fix caught early prevents the £400 problem that develops from neglect.
Windows are one of the more underappreciated components of a UK home. They sit there quietly for decades, performing a complex job (admitting light, providing ventilation, blocking weather, insulating against heat loss, reducing noise, providing security, and contributing to the home’s appearance) and asking very little in return. The little that they do ask, however, matters more than most homeowners realise. Five minutes of the right attention twice a year extends a window’s useful life by a decade; the wrong cleaning product or a missed drainage check can shave years off the same window’s lifespan. The difference between windows that look and perform like new at fifteen years old and windows that look tired at eight is rarely the underlying quality. It is the cumulative effect of how they have been maintained.
This guide walks through the practical reality of window maintenance for UK homes in 2026. We will cover what to clean and how, what to inspect and when, what each material needs specifically, what symptoms point to professional attention rather than DIY, and how to recognise the early signs of issues before they become expensive problems. By the end, you will have a maintenance schedule that fits realistically into a UK household and the diagnostic confidence to know when something genuinely needs attention.
If your maintenance checks show that your windows are becoming harder to clean, draughty, misted between panes, or no longer suited to the room, it may be worth reviewing your options for replacement windows. For homeowners also managing light, privacy, or condensation around the glass, made-to-measure shutters and window blinds can help improve everyday comfort while complementing the style of the room.
What window maintenance actually protects
Window maintenance is often described in terms of cleaning, but the cleaning is the smallest part of what matters. The full picture covers seven distinct components, each with its own ageing pattern and care requirements.
The glass itself is the most visible component but typically the least demanding. Quality modern double glazing with low-emissivity coatings benefits from regular cleaning to maintain visibility and the coating’s optical performance. The sealed unit (the cassette of two or three panes with the inert gas fill) is essentially a sealed system that has its own service life of 15 to 25 years, after which the seals fail and the unit needs replacement.
The frame is the structural component that holds everything together. Different materials age differently: uPVC slowly yellows on south-facing elevations, aluminium powder coating fades gradually over decades, and engineered timber needs refinishing every five to seven years to prevent rot. The frame condition affects the lifespan of every other component.
The compression seals around the sashes prevent draughts and water ingress while maintaining the airtightness that drives thermal performance. Quality EPDM rubber seals last 10 to 15 years before hardening or compressing permanently; degraded seals are one of the most common causes of draughts and condensation problems on otherwise sound windows.
The hardware (hinges, locks, handles, sliding mechanisms) is the part of the window that gets used most actively and typically needs attention soonest. Annual lubrication and biannual operational checks extend the life of hardware significantly; neglected hardware fails first and often pulls the rest of the window into early replacement.
The drainage channels are the small slots cut into the bottom of frames that allow water to escape from the cill area. Blocked drainage causes water to back up into the frame, accelerating seal failure and creating damp problems internally. Quarterly clearing of drainage holes is essential.
The trickle vents (now required on most replacement windows under Approved Document F) provide background ventilation. Keeping them clear of dust and debris maintains the home’s ventilation strategy and reduces condensation risk.
The honest framing on maintenance: cleaning glass is the visible task; everything else is the work that genuinely extends window lifespan. A window with spotless glass but neglected drainage and hardware ages much faster than a window with reasonable glass cleaning and disciplined attention to the other components.
Quick maintenance schedule
The right schedule for UK homes is less involved than most homeowners imagine. Spread across the year, the time commitment is around two hours total, broken into manageable sessions.
Monthly: A quick visual check of all windows during regular cleaning. Look for new condensation patterns, sticking operation, visible seal damage, or any unusual sounds when opening or closing. The check takes five minutes for a typical home and catches early-stage issues before they develop.
Quarterly: Wash the frames and glass thoroughly with warm soapy water and a microfibre cloth. Clear the drainage holes at the bottom of each frame with a soft brush or compressed air. Check the trickle vents are clear and operating correctly. Lift the operation of any sticky locks or sashes onto the maintenance list.
Annually (typically spring or autumn): Lubricate hinges with silicone spray. Apply graphite powder to lock cylinders. Visually inspect each weather seal for hardening, tears or compression damage. Check timber frames for any cracking, peeling or rot signs. Test the operation of every window through its full range. Address any issues identified during the year.
Every five to seven years on timber windows: Refinish with sanding, priming and repainting or re-staining. This is essential maintenance, not optional, and skipping it dramatically shortens timber window lifespan.
Reactive maintenance: Address minor issues promptly. A failed seal caught early is a £15 fix; a failed seal left for three years can lead to plaster damage, mould growth and frame movement that requires £400 of remedial work.
How to clean window glass safely
Glass cleaning is straightforward in principle but easily done wrong. The right method preserves the coatings, avoids streaks, and protects the seals.
The basic method: Use warm water with a small amount of mild washing-up liquid, applied with a microfibre cloth. Wipe across the entire pane in horizontal strokes, then dry with a separate microfibre cloth in vertical strokes. The different stroke direction makes any remaining streaks easier to spot. Finish with a quick wipe of the frame edges and cill to remove any drips.
For stubborn marks (insect debris, sap, hard water spots), apply white vinegar diluted 50:50 with water using a microfibre cloth. Leave for thirty seconds, then wipe and dry as above. The acidity of vinegar dissolves mineral deposits without damaging coatings or seals when used in moderation.
What to avoid: Abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, steel wool, and any cleaning product containing ammonia, bleach or strong solvents. These can strip low-emissivity coatings, damage seals, etch the glass surface, or void manufacturer warranties. Pressure washers should never be used on windows; the pressure can force water past seals and damage frames or coatings.
For homes near busy roads or in urban environments, monthly cleaning maintains the appearance better than quarterly cleaning, because pollution and traffic film accumulate visibly between longer intervals. Coastal homes need more frequent attention because salt air leaves visible deposits and accelerates corrosion of any vulnerable hardware.
The honest framing on glass cleaning: the cheap cleaning products and harsh methods often cause more long-term damage than dirt does. Mild soapy water and microfibre cloths are genuinely all most homes need.
Frame maintenance by material
Each frame material has its own ageing pattern and care requirements, and the right approach prevents damage that quickly becomes expensive.
uPVC frames
uPVC is the easiest frame material to maintain, but easy does not mean zero. Wash the frames quarterly with warm soapy water and a microfibre cloth, paying particular attention to the corners and the joints where dirt accumulates. Avoid abrasive cleaners; the surface scratches show as visible matt patches that cannot be polished out.
For mineral deposits on white uPVC (typically from hard water on splashed cills), use white vinegar diluted 50:50 and apply with a microfibre cloth, leaving for sixty seconds before wiping. For yellowing on south-facing white uPVC, the discoloration is in the surface layer of the profile rather than on it; specialist uPVC restorers exist but rarely deliver lasting results. Significant yellowing usually points to budget profile, and the right answer is replacement when the rest of the property is being upgraded.
Foiled woodgrain and coloured uPVC needs slightly more careful attention because abrasive cleaning can damage the foil layer. Use only mild soapy water and microfibre cloths; avoid solvents entirely.
The trim seals on uPVC frames (the visible rubber gaskets between the glass and the frame) should be inspected annually for cracking or compression damage. Worn gaskets cause water ingress and hardware corrosion if left unaddressed.
Aluminium frames
Aluminium with quality powder coating is similarly low-maintenance. Wash quarterly with warm soapy water and a microfibre cloth. The powder coating is durable and resists most cleaning products, but avoid abrasives and any strong solvents that could affect the surface finish.
Coastal homes need more frequent attention because salt deposits can accelerate corrosion at vulnerable points (joints, drainage holes, hardware fixings). Monthly washing during high-salt periods (winter storms, prolonged onshore winds) protects the frame’s appearance and lifespan.
Inspect the powder coating annually for chips, scratches or fading. Minor chips can be touched up with manufacturer-supplied colour-matched paint to prevent corrosion at the exposed point. Significant fading on south-facing elevations after 25 to 30 years is normal; the powder coating can sometimes be reapplied by a specialist, although replacement is often the more sensible answer at that point.
Engineered timber frames
Engineered timber requires the most active maintenance commitment of the three mainstream materials. Refinishing every five to seven years is essential and unavoidable. Skipped refinishing accelerates rot, particularly at the bottom corners where water ingress concentrates.
Between refinishing cycles, wash the frames quarterly with warm soapy water. Inspect annually for any cracking, peeling, or visible deterioration of the finish. Catch issues early: a small area of failed finish addressed promptly with localised sanding and repainting prevents the problem from spreading.
The refinishing process: sand the existing finish with progressively finer grit (typically 120, 180, 240); spot-prime any bare timber with a microporous primer; apply two coats of microporous topcoat (paint or stain depending on the original finish), allowing full drying between coats. Quality factory-applied finishes hold for 8 to 12 years between refinishing; traditional hand-applied finishes hold for 4 to 6 years.
The cost of professional refinishing typically runs £200 to £600 per window depending on size and condition. DIY refinishing is feasible for confident homeowners but takes meaningful time per window.
Composite frames
Composite windows (timber inner core with aluminium or GRP outer skin) combine the maintenance characteristics of both materials. The aluminium exterior needs the same low-maintenance care as full aluminium frames; the timber interior may need occasional touch-up of paint or stain over the lifespan, but the outer layer prevents the rot risk that affects pure timber.
Double glazing and condensation checks
Condensation is one of the most common reasons homeowners worry about their windows, and the diagnosis matters because the three locations of condensation point to different problems with different solutions.
Condensation on the inside of the glass (the side facing the room) is normal in cold weather and indicates room humidity is hitting cold glass. The fix is improved ventilation: open trickle vents fully, run extractor fans during cooking and bathing, ventilate bedrooms briefly each morning, and ensure window dressings allow air movement around the glass. Persistent internal condensation despite good ventilation suggests room humidity is too high overall and may need attention to lifestyle factors (drying laundry indoors, indoor plants, insufficient extraction).
Condensation on the outside of the glass (the side facing the weather) is a sign of high-performance windows working as designed and is not a fault. Modern compliant windows lose so little heat through the glass that the outer surface stays at outdoor air temperature, which can drop below the dew point on cool, humid mornings. The condensation typically clears within an hour or two of sunlight; no action is needed.
Condensation between the panes (inside the sealed glazing unit, where you cannot wipe it) is the only problematic location and indicates the sealed unit has failed. The unit no longer performs thermally as designed and needs replacement. Individual sealed units can be replaced on most quality frames at £150 to £400 per unit, far cheaper than full window replacement.
The honest framing on condensation: only the between-panes location indicates a window fault. The other two locations are about ventilation and weather, not the windows themselves.
Seals, gaskets, draughts and drainage
The components that maintain weatherproofing on a window age more visibly than the frame itself, and the early signs of degradation are easy to catch with quarterly inspection.
Compression seals around the sashes should be visually inspected annually. Look for hardening (the rubber feels rigid rather than springy), tears, or sections that have compressed permanently and no longer spring back when the sash is opened. Failed seals cause draughts, water ingress and acoustic performance loss. Replacement seals cost £15 to £50 per window in materials and are a feasible DIY task on most modern windows; a competent installer charges £100 to £200 per window for the work including fitting.
Glazing gaskets (the visible rubber strips between the glass and the frame) age similarly and need inspection annually. Worn gaskets allow water to track between the glass and the frame, which is one of the more common causes of premature sealed unit failure.
Draughts during a closed window almost always indicate failed compression seals on younger windows or cumulative ageing on older ones. The paper test (close a sheet of paper in the window and try to pull it out; resistance indicates good sealing, easy removal indicates failed sealing) takes one minute per window and identifies issues before they become noticeable.
Drainage holes (small slots cut into the bottom of the frame, typically two to four per window) need quarterly clearing. A blocked drainage hole causes water to back up into the frame, which accelerates seal failure and can cause internal damp problems. Clear the holes with a soft brush, a wire from a paperclip, or compressed air. The clearing takes thirty seconds per window and is one of the highest-impact maintenance tasks for window lifespan.
Hardware: hinges, locks, handles and tracks
The moving parts on a window get used actively and need the most attention to keep them working correctly.
Hinges should be lubricated annually with silicone spray rather than oil-based lubricants, which attract dirt over time. Apply sparingly to the hinge pivot points; wipe away any excess. Sticky hinges that do not respond to lubrication usually indicate the sash has dropped slightly and needs adjustment; this is typically a small job for a competent installer at £80 to £150 per window.
Locks need a different approach. The cylinder mechanism takes graphite powder rather than spray lubricant; spray lubricants can attract dirt and gum up the cylinder over time. A small puff of graphite powder annually keeps the cylinder operating smoothly. Stiff handles or locks that do not engage smoothly indicate hardware wear; replacement parts are typically available for 10 to 15 years from window installation.
Sliding tracks on tilt-and-turn windows and sliding sashes need quarterly clearing of dirt and debris. Vacuum the track with a brush attachment, then wipe clean with a damp microfibre cloth. Avoid lubricating the tracks themselves; the lubricant attracts dirt and creates more problems than it solves.
For sash windows specifically, the spring balances or weighted cords that allow the sash to slide smoothly need occasional attention. Modern spring-balance systems usually last 15 to 20 years before needing replacement; weighted cord systems on heritage timber sashes need professional restringing every 30 to 50 years. Both are jobs for a competent installer rather than DIY.
Security-rated hardware (TS 007 three-star cylinders, multi-point locking systems) should be checked annually for proper operation. Any locks that do not engage fully, cylinders that turn loosely, or hardware that shows visible damage should be addressed promptly; security failures on windows are one of the more common burglary entry routes.
Shutters, blinds, and ventilation
Window dressings affect the long-term condition of the frames and glass behind them, and the relationship is worth understanding.
Plantation shutters fitted within the recess can trap moisture between the shutter and the window when closed for extended periods. Open the shutters fully for at least an hour each morning to allow air movement and moisture release. In bedrooms with significant overnight breathing humidity, this morning routine prevents condensation building behind the shutters and the mould risk that follows.
Blinds fitted to the window frame or above the recess have less direct effect on the window condition because they do not seal against the glass. Wipe down blind slats and roller mechanisms quarterly to prevent dust accumulation and ensure smooth operation.
Curtains hung from above the recess have the least effect on the window condition. Ensure curtains do not block trickle vents or interfere with the window opening operation. In rooms with persistent condensation, lighter curtains or open-weave fabrics allow better air movement around the glass.
Trickle vents must remain unobstructed to perform their ventilation function. Window dressings should be specified and fitted to leave the vent area clear. For homes where shutters and trickle vents are both fitted, the shutter design should accommodate the vent position; this is best agreed at the shutter design stage rather than retrofitted later.
UK regulations and standards
Window maintenance interacts with the regulatory framework in two ways: existing windows installed under Building Regulations must continue to comply, and any repairs that involve replacement components may trigger compliance considerations.
Approved Document L sets the thermal performance standards for replacement windows. The current edition incorporates the 2023 amendments and applies to dwellings in England. Existing windows installed under earlier editions remain compliant, but replacement of major components (full sealed units, complete sashes) brings the new components under current rules.
Approved Document F covers ventilation. Trickle vents are required on most replacement windows since 15 June 2022, and homeowners must not permanently obstruct or remove them. Closing them seasonally is acceptable; permanent removal compromises the home’s ventilation strategy.
Safety glazing rules apply to any glass replacement at low level. Glass within 800mm of the floor, or 300mm beside a door, must be toughened or laminated safety glass. Replacement sealed units in these locations must use safety-rated glass; non-safety glass in critical locations is a compliance issue and a potential safety hazard.
FENSA or CERTASS certification applies to original installation but extends to certain remedial work involving replacement components. Most maintenance work (cleaning, lubricating, adjusting) is outside the scheme; major component replacement should be carried out by a registered installer who can self-certify the new work.
Listed buildings always require listed building consent for any window changes, which can include certain types of repair work that affect appearance. Consult the conservation officer before significant remedial work on listed properties.
Repair or replace? Decision framework
Maintenance reveals issues; the question is what to do about them. The framework below resolves most cases.
Clean and adjust if: the issue is cosmetic dirt, minor sticking from compressed seals, or hardware that needs lubrication and minor adjustment. DIY task or local handyman, typically under £100 in materials and time.
Replace seals if: draughts, water ingress, or noise transmission have increased noticeably, and visual inspection shows hardened or torn compression seals. DIY task on most modern windows or a competent installer at £100 to £200 per window.
Replace sealed units if: condensation appears between the panes of a sound frame. Specialist installer task at £150 to £400 per unit, restoring the window’s full thermal performance.
Refinish if: timber windows show peeling, cracking or visible finish failure, but the underlying timber is sound. DIY task for confident homeowners or specialists at £200 to £600 per window.
Replace hardware if: hinges, locks or handles fail, and replacement parts are available. Specialist installer task at £100 to £300 per window, depending on the hardware specification.
Replace the whole window if: multiple issues are present at once, the frames themselves show structural damage (rot, warping, corrosion), or the cumulative repair cost approaches half the cost of quality replacement. Full replacement at £600 to £2,500 per window typically delivers better long-term value than progressive repairs on a window past its useful life.
Real homeowner scenarios
Generic guidance only goes so far. Here are the situations we see most often, with the practical maintenance answer for each.
Renovation dust and plaster contamination
Building work in or near a property covers windows in fine dust, plaster splashes and construction debris. The right response is gentle removal: vacuum loose dust with a soft brush attachment first, then wash with warm soapy water using copious amounts of water rather than scrubbing. Plaster splashes can scratch glass if rubbed dry; soak with water for several minutes before wiping. For windows in active building zones, weekly washing prevents accumulated dust embedding in seals and hardware where it accelerates wear.
Period sash windows in a Victorian or Edwardian property
Original timber sashes need annual inspection of the timber for any signs of rot at the bottom corners and beadings, plus refinishing every five to seven years. The sash mechanisms (spring balances or weighted cords) need professional attention every 20 to 30 years. The original glazing putty around the panes can crack and fail over decades; small cracks can be repaired locally with traditional linseed putty, while extensive failure typically points to whole-window restoration.
Coastal home with salt and spray exposure
Coastal properties need monthly washing during high-salt periods to prevent salt deposits from accelerating corrosion of hardware and finishes. Aluminium with marine-grade powder coating handles the conditions best; uPVC is acceptable but ages faster on exposed coastal locations. Annual inspection of all hardware for corrosion is essential, with prompt replacement of any compromised components before the corrosion spreads.
New build with trickle vents
The first 18 to 24 months in a new build often produce significant condensation as construction moisture dissipates from concrete, plaster and timber. Open trickle vents fully, run extractor fans actively, and ventilate rooms briefly each morning. The condensation typically resolves entirely within two heating seasons; if it persists beyond that, the issue is usually behavioural (drying laundry indoors, insufficient extraction) rather than a window fault.
Urban property near a busy road
Urban traffic film accumulates faster than rural dust, with combustion deposits and brake dust adhering to glass and frames within weeks. Monthly washing rather than quarterly is appropriate for urban properties. Acoustic vents (where fitted) need quarterly cleaning to prevent the absorbent material from becoming clogged with airborne particles.
Rental property with multiple tenancies
Rental windows benefit from annual professional maintenance visits between tenancies, when the property is empty and the work is uninterrupted. The visit typically covers seal inspection, hardware lubrication, drainage clearing, and any minor repairs. The cost (£100 to £250 per visit for a typical home) is small compared with the impact on tenant satisfaction and the cost of remedial work when issues are left to develop.
Costs and long-term savings
Window maintenance is one of the more cost-effective home improvement investments available. The numbers usually justify the time commitment several times over.
Annual maintenance costs typically run £40 to £100 in materials (cleaning supplies, silicone spray, graphite powder, occasional seal replacements) plus around two hours of homeowner time. Professional annual maintenance visits add £100 to £250 if preferred over DIY.
The savings come in three forms. Reduced repair costs: catching minor issues early prevents the £400 problems that develop from the £15 ones left unaddressed. Extended lifespan: well-maintained windows reach the upper end of their material lifespan range (25 years on uPVC, 40 on aluminium, 30+ on timber); poorly maintained windows fail at the lower end. Maintained thermal performance: clean coatings, intact seals and operational trickle vents preserve the thermal and acoustic performance the windows were specified to deliver.
Across a 25-year ownership, disciplined maintenance typically saves £1,500 to £4,000 in deferred repairs and replacements compared with neglected maintenance, plus the cumulative comfort and energy benefits of windows that continue to perform as designed.
Frequently asked questions
1. How often should I clean my windows?
Quarterly cleaning is sufficient for most UK homes, with monthly cleaning recommended for urban properties near busy roads and coastal homes during high-salt periods. The frame and drainage maintenance matters more than headline glass cleaning frequency; quarterly attention to frames, drainage holes and hardware is the priority.
2. What is the best way to clean uPVC window frames?
Warm water with a small amount of mild washing-up liquid, applied with a microfibre cloth. Wipe across the surface with horizontal strokes, paying particular attention to corners and joints where dirt accumulates. Avoid abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, and any cleaning product containing ammonia or strong solvents.
3. Can I use vinegar on glass or frames?
Yes, white vinegar diluted 50:50 with water is safe and effective for both glass and uPVC frames. The acidity dissolves mineral deposits without damaging coatings or seals when used in moderation. Avoid undiluted vinegar and avoid prolonged contact with seals or gaskets, which can dry out over time.
4. Why are my double-glazed windows misting between panes?
Condensation between the panes means the sealed glazing unit has failed and the inert gas fill has escaped. The unit no longer performs thermally as designed and needs replacement. On a sound frame, the unit alone can be replaced for £150 to £400. The frame itself is usually still fine; only the sealed unit needs attention.
5. Is condensation on the outside of double glazing bad?
No, it is a sign that the windows are performing well. Modern compliant windows lose so little heat through the glass that the outer surface stays at outdoor air temperature, which can drop below the dew point on cool, humid mornings. The condensation clears within an hour or two of sunlight; no action is needed.
6. How do I stop condensation behind shutters or blinds?
Open the shutters or blinds fully for at least an hour each morning to allow air movement around the glass. Bedrooms with significant overnight humidity benefit from this routine, particularly. Ensure trickle vents remain unobstructed by the window dressing. For persistent condensation, improving wider room ventilation usually solves the problem.
7. Should trickle vents stay open?
In heated rooms, yes, particularly in winter when the home is closed for warmth and indoor humidity rises. The energy cost of leaving vents open is far smaller than the cost of running the heating harder to clear condensation later. Close them only briefly during exceptionally cold weather or in unheated rooms not in use.
8. How often should timber window frames be repainted or recoated?
Every five to seven years on most installations, sometimes sooner on south-facing or exposed elevations. Quality factory-applied finishes hold for 8 to 12 years between refinishing cycles; traditional hand-applied finishes hold for 4 to 6 years. Skipped refinishing significantly accelerates rot risk at vulnerable points.
9. What lubricant should I use on hinges and locks?
Silicone spray on hinges (avoid oil-based lubricants, which attract dirt). Graphite powder on lock cylinders (avoid spray lubricants, which can gum up the cylinder mechanism). Apply sparingly and wipe away any excess. Annual application is sufficient on most quality hardware.
10. When does a window need professional repair?
Misted sealed units, draughts that persist after seal replacement, a sticking operation that does not respond to lubrication and adjustment, visible frame damage (rot, warping, corrosion), or any security concern with the locks or cylinders. Most other maintenance is feasible DIY for confident homeowners.
11. Do replacement windows need to meet Building Regulations?
Yes. Replacement windows are controlled fittings under the Building Regulations, with thermal performance, ventilation, safety glazing and fire escape requirements all applying. A registered FENSA or CERTASS installer self-certifies the work and provides a certificate that conveyancers ask for when you sell.
12. What is Part L and why does it matter?
Approved Document L is the Building Regulations guidance covering thermal performance of dwellings in England. The current edition sets a maximum whole-window U-value of 1.4 W/m²K for replacement windows, or a Window Energy Rating of Band B or better. Existing compliant windows continue to meet the standards they were installed under; replacement work brings the new components under current rules.
13. Should I repair or replace draughty windows?
Repair if the frames are sound and the issue is localised to seals or hardware. Replace if the frames themselves are compromised, multiple problems are present at once, the windows are more than 20 to 25 years old, or the cumulative repair cost approaches half the cost of quality replacement.
14. How do I maintain windows during and after renovation work?
Cover windows with protective sheeting where possible during heavy work. Vacuum loose dust with soft brushes rather than wiping it dry, which can scratch glass. Wash with copious water to flush plaster splashes rather than rubbing them off. After the work completes, deep-clean the windows, including drainage holes and hardware, to remove embedded construction debris.
15. Are aluminium, uPVC or timber frames easiest to maintain?
Aluminium and uPVC are similarly low-maintenance, requiring quarterly washing and minimal active care. Engineered timber requires the highest maintenance commitment, with refinishing every five to seven years on top of the standard cleaning schedule. For homeowners prioritising minimal ongoing work, aluminium and uPVC are clearly preferable; for properties where appearance defines the elevation, timber’s commitment is part of the trade-off.