TL;DR
- Match the style to the property era. Sliding sash windows belong on Victorian, Edwardian and Georgian homes; casements suit 1930s semis and post-war stock; flush casements work on cottages and transitional properties; tilt-and-turn is the practical answer for flats.
- Listed buildings always need listed building consent, and conservation areas with Article 4 Directions may need planning permission. Check before ordering.
- uPVC suits most homes built between 1960 and 2000. Aluminium suits contemporary properties and large glazed openings. Engineered timber is the right answer on period and listed homes.
- Casements run from £600 fitted; sash and flush configurations add 30 to 60 per cent. Across all styles, specify trickle vents, safety glazing, and FENSA or CERTASS certification.
The window style on a UK home is one of those decisions that quietly defines the property for the next twenty years. Get it right and the elevation reads correctly, the proportions feel deliberate, and the windows perform invisibly in the background. Get it wrong and the mismatch is visible from the pavement: a Victorian terrace with chunky casements, a 1930s semi with sashes that do not belong, a modern extension with heritage profiles imposed on a contemporary form. The cost of getting it wrong is rarely just aesthetic; it shows up in the home’s market value when you sell.
This guide cuts through the catalogue marketing and walks through the window styles available on UK homes in 2026, what each one is genuinely good for, and how to match the right style to your specific property. By the end, you will know which configuration works on which kind of house, what the cost differences actually are, and how to avoid the most common mistakes homeowners make at this stage of a project.
Quick answer: best window styles for UK homes
For most UK homes, the right window style follows the property era and the elevation rather than personal preference. As a working summary:
| Property type | Recommended style |
| Victorian, Edwardian and Georgian | Sliding sash, ideally in timber or quality uPVC heritage range |
| 1930s semi-detached and detached | Casement, with a bay window at the front in matching style |
| Period cottages and farmhouses | Flush casement in timber or timber-effect uPVC |
| Conservation areas and listed buildings | Like-for-like replacement, often timber or approved heritage flush |
| 1960s to 1990s homes | Casement in uPVC or aluminium |
| Modern new builds and contemporary extensions | Casement, picture or tilt-and-turn in aluminium |
| Flats and upper-floor apartments | Tilt-and-turn for cleaning access and ventilation |
| Coastal properties | Aluminium with marine-grade powder coating, casement or fixed |
The detail behind this table is where the real value sits, because each row hides trade-offs around budget, planning constraints, and practical use that matter more in some homes than others.
How to choose the right window style
If you are still weighing up the right balance of style, performance and practicality, it can help to compare your options across both replacement windows for UK homes and made-to-measure window shutters. The right combination can improve kerb appeal, privacy, insulation, and everyday comfort, especially in rooms where light control or period character matters.
Before looking at individual styles, work through the seven factors that matter most. The right answer usually emerges once these are clear.
Property age and architectural style is the strongest single driver. UK homes were designed around specific window proportions, and replacing them with the wrong style throws the whole elevation off. Period homes (Victorian, Edwardian, Georgian) want sash or sympathetic flush profiles. Inter-war homes (1920s to 1940s) want casements with traditional proportions. Post-war and modern homes have more flexibility.
Planning and conservation rules can override stylistic preferences entirely. Listed buildings always require listed building consent for window changes, and the replacement is usually expected to match the original in style and material. Conservation areas with Article 4 Directions may require planning permission and impose style restrictions. Check before ordering.
Budget shapes the choice between mainstream and premium options. uPVC casements are the most affordable mainstream choice. Sash windows and flush casements add 30 to 60 per cent. Timber and aluminium add further premiums. Bay configurations cost two to three times more than equivalent single windows.
Ventilation needs vary by room and orientation. Casement and tilt-and-turn windows offer the largest opening areas for cross-ventilation. Sash windows offer good controlled ventilation, particularly when both upper and lower sashes can be opened. Fixed picture windows offer none.
Cleaning access matters more than people anticipate. Upper-floor windows on properties without external cleaning access need configurations that allow internal cleaning. Tilt-and-turn windows excel here; sash windows can be cleaned internally on quality modern systems; standard casements may not be accessible without a window cleaner.
Energy efficiency is broadly comparable across modern compliant styles, with whole-window U-values of 1.2 to 1.5 W/m²K achievable in most quality systems. The differences within this range are usually less significant than the difference between modern compliant windows and tired older ones.
Security depends on hardware specification rather than window style. Modern multipoint locking, anti-snap cylinders and laminated glazing on accessible windows deliver excellent security across all the mainstream styles.
Casement windows
The casement window is the workhorse of UK housing, dominating the market since the 1980s for good reason. A casement consists of a hinged sash (or multiple sashes) within a fixed frame, opening either at the side (side-hung) or from the top (top-hung), or sometimes a combination of both.
Casements suit a remarkably wide range of UK properties. Inter-war semis, post-war housing, 1960s to 1990s estates and most new builds all read correctly with casement configurations. Within the casement category, the sash configuration (number of opening lights, presence of fanlights or transoms, glazing pattern) can be tailored to the era of the property.
The advantages are practical. Casements offer the largest unobstructed opening area for ventilation among the mainstream styles, are straightforward to manufacture in any size, accept all standard glazing specifications, and are the cheapest mainstream option to fit. Whole-window U-values of 1.2 to 1.5 W/m²K are routine on quality systems.
The trade-offs are stylistic rather than practical. On Victorian, Edwardian or Georgian properties, casements look wrong on the principal elevation, no matter how well-specified. The visual language of those eras is vertical, sliding and divided; casements read as horizontal, hinged and undivided. Reserving casements for elevations where they belong is the right call.
Typical fitted cost: £600 to £1,500 per window in standard uPVC, £900 to £2,200 in aluminium, £1,200 to £2,500 in engineered timber.
Flush casement windows
The flush casement is one of the more interesting evolutions of the casement format and has quietly become the default heritage-style choice for properties where a true sash would be excessive. The defining feature is that the opening sash sits flush with the outer frame when closed, rather than projecting outwards as a standard casement does.
The flush profile reads correctly on a wide range of UK homes that are not quite period enough to demand sashes but want more architectural dignity than a standard casement provides. Cottages, country homes, mock-Tudor properties, transitional 1920s housing, and properties in conservation areas often work beautifully with flush casements. The visual cleanliness sits well on rural and traditional elevations.
Modern flush casements come in three main material categories: timber (the original and the most period-correct), engineered timber-effect uPVC (an increasingly convincing alternative at lower cost and with no maintenance), and aluminium (slim-profile contemporary versions for modern homes wanting heritage hints).
The trade-offs are price and complexity. Flush casements are usually 20 to 35 per cent more expensive than equivalent standard casements due to the more refined profile detailing. Some conservation officers accept flush casements as an alternative to true sashes, which can simplify approvals on properties where sash replacement would be cost-prohibitive.
Typical fitted cost: £900 to £1,800 per window in flush uPVC, £1,400 to £2,800 in flush aluminium, £1,600 to £3,200 in engineered timber.
Sliding sash windows
The sliding sash window is the period-correct choice for Victorian, Edwardian and Georgian properties, where it has been the standard configuration for two centuries. Two vertical sashes slide past each other within a deep frame, with the upper sash and lower sash either both moving (double-hung) or one fixed and one moving (single-hung). The proportions, the glazing patterns, and the slim glazing bars all read correctly on period elevations in a way no other style can match.
Modern sash windows come in three main forms. Engineered timber sashes are the period-correct choice for listed buildings and conservation areas with strict requirements. Quality uPVC sash windows replicate the proportions and astragal patterns convincingly enough to satisfy most planning officers and many homeowners outside the strictest conservation contexts. Aluminium sashes exist but are less common and more contemporary in feel.
The advantages are aesthetic and historic. Nothing else looks correct on a Victorian terrace or Edwardian semi up close, and the difference is visible from the pavement. Sash windows also offer excellent controlled ventilation: both sashes can be opened slightly to create a flow that draws warm stale air out of the top while drawing cooler fresh air in at the bottom, particularly useful in bedrooms.
The trade-offs are cost and complexity. Sash windows cost 40 to 60 per cent more than equivalent casements because the mechanism is more involved. The sash mechanism (spring balances or weighted cords) needs occasional attention over the life of the window. Sash windows are also harder to triple-glaze due to the additional weight of the sashes.
Typical fitted cost: £1,000 to £1,800 per window in uPVC sash, £1,500 to £3,500 in engineered timber sash.
Tilt-and-turn windows
The tilt-and-turn window is the practical answer for flats, upper-floor apartments and properties where cleaning access from outside is restricted. The window opens in two ways: tilting inwards from the bottom for ventilation (the common daily mode), or turning fully inwards on side hinges for full access and cleaning. The dual operation comes from a clever single-handle mechanism.
Tilt-and-turn windows are common on continental European homes and have grown in popularity on UK new builds, apartments and contemporary extensions. They suit properties where the architectural language is modern or international, and they work particularly well in flats where the homeowner needs to clean the outside of the glass from inside.
The advantages are practical. Cleaning the external glass from inside the room is uniquely useful on upper floors and balcony-less flats. The tilt position offers controlled ventilation without security concerns about a wide-open window. The full opening allows the window to function as an emergency egress where required by the means of escape regulations.
The trade-offs are stylistic and structural. Tilt-and-turn windows look distinctly modern, which is correct on contemporary properties but feels imposed on traditional homes. The mechanism is more complex than a simple casement, with correspondingly heavier hardware. The window opens inwards, which means furniture, curtains and blinds need to accommodate the swing.
Typical fitted cost: £900 to £1,800 per window in uPVC, £1,400 to £2,500 in aluminium.
Bay and bow windows
Bay and bow windows are visually significant on the elevations where they belong, and replacing them well is one of the more involved parts of any UK window project. A bay window is formed from three or five sections set at angles to project from the elevation; a bow window is similar but with curved rather than angled connections.
Bay windows are defining features on Edwardian terraces, 1930s semis, and Victorian villas. The bay was originally a way to bring more light and floor area into a front room without changing the building’s overall footprint, and it works for the same reasons today. Replacing the bay correctly maintains the property’s character and value; replacing it with a flat configuration usually damages both.
The configuration of the bay should match the era. Edwardian bays often used a central larger window with smaller flanking lights and decorative leaded glass in the upper panes. 1930s bays typically used three or five equal lights with a leaded or stained-glass top section. Victorian bays were often more elaborate with fine glazing bars. Modern replacements should respect these proportions even when the glazing pattern is simplified.
The trade-offs are cost and structural complexity. A bay window is essentially several windows combined with structural connectors and weatherproofing details, and the cost reflects this. Bay windows also depend on the existing structural support (a roof above the bay, the brickwork below), which the surveyor needs to assess before manufacture. Replacement of a bay window with a different configuration usually requires building control approval and may need planning consideration on visible elevations.
Typical fitted cost: £2,200 to £4,500 for a three-section uPVC bay, £3,500 to £6,500 for a five-section period-style bay, with aluminium and timber adding 30 to 60 per cent.
French windows and picture windows
French windows and picture windows are specialist configurations that suit specific situations on UK homes.
French windows are full-height pairs of inward or outward-opening glazed doors, often with side panels, that bring the elevation alive on traditional properties. They work as proper opening windows from waist height up while extending floor-level access where useful. French windows suit period homes with raised ground floors, cottages with garden-facing rooms, and properties where the design language calls for something more architectural than a standard casement.
Picture windows are large fixed (non-opening) lights that exist purely for the view and the daylight. They are usually combined with smaller opening windows nearby to provide ventilation, with the picture window itself dedicated to maximum unobstructed glazing. Picture windows work on contemporary properties, properties with significant views (gardens, countryside, water), and rooms where the light quality is the priority.
The advantages are visual: both styles deliver more glass area than equivalent operable configurations, and both have a quiet sophistication that works on the right property. The trade-offs are practical: French windows need swing space, and picture windows require nearby openable windows for ventilation.
Typical fitted cost: £1,800 to £3,500 per pair of French windows in uPVC, £2,500 to £5,000 in aluminium, £2,800 to £6,000 in engineered timber. Picture windows price by glazing area, with large fixed panels typically £900 to £2,500 fitted.
uPVC versus aluminium versus timber
The frame material is the second-biggest decision after window style. The right material depends on the property and the long-term plan.
uPVC is the mainstream choice for most UK homes built between 1960 and 2000, plus modern renovations on a sensible budget. Quality uPVC with multi-chambered profiles, double glazing and low-emissivity coatings achieves whole-window U-values of 1.2 to 1.5 W/m²K and lasts 20 to 25 years. Standard white is cheapest; foiled woodgrain finishes (Rosewood, Oak, Anthracite Grey, Black) and coloured profiles add 10 to 30 per cent.
Aluminium is the right choice for contemporary properties, large glazed openings, and renovations where slim sightlines matter. Modern thermal-break construction means thermal performance is now competitive with uPVC. Aluminium lasts 30 to 40 years with quality powder coating, and the bespoke RAL colour matching available makes it the natural choice for architect-designed homes. Heritage steel-look aluminium suits period properties wanting modern performance.
Engineered timber is the right answer for Victorian, Edwardian, Georgian and listed properties where appearance matters. Engineered timber, built up in laminated layers, is far more dimensionally stable than solid hardwood and resists warping. The trade-off is maintenance: refinishing every five to seven years on most installations, sometimes sooner on south-facing or exposed elevations.
Composite windows combine a timber core with an aluminium or GRP outer skin, giving the warmth of timber inside and the durability of aluminium outside. Premium product, premium price, but genuinely the best of both worlds for projects where the budget allows.
Best window styles by UK property type
Generic guidance only goes so far. Here are the most common UK property types with the practical answer for each.
Victorian terrace
Sliding sash windows in engineered timber for listed properties or strict conservation areas, or quality uPVC sash for most other Victorian terraces. The proportions and glazing pattern matter as much as the operation: replicate the original astragal pattern where possible. Aluminium and casement styles look wrong on the principal elevation. On rear elevations away from public view, more flexibility is sometimes acceptable.
Edwardian semi or terrace
Sash windows on the front, often with a bay configuration. Edwardian bays often used decorative leaded glass in the upper panes, which is worth replicating in modern equivalents. Engineered timber for listed or strict conservation contexts; quality uPVC sash heritage range for most Edwardian properties.
Georgian property
Six-over-six or twelve-over-twelve sash windows in engineered timber. Georgian proportions are tall, narrow and finely detailed, and uPVC rarely captures the slimness of the original astragals. For listed Georgian properties, engineered timber sashes from a heritage specialist are essentially the only acceptable option.
1930s semi-detached
Casement windows on the principal elevations, with a bay window at the front in matching casement style. The 1930s era introduced the casement as the dominant style, and modern casements suit the proportions correctly. uPVC casements at typical fitted costs work well here. Foiled woodgrain or anthracite grey finishes can give the property a more contemporary feel without compromising character.
Period cottage or farmhouse
Flush casements in engineered timber or quality timber-effect uPVC. The flush profile reads correctly on rural and traditional elevations where standard casements would feel too modern. The proportions should be small-paned and divided, often with leaded glass in upper panes.
1960s to 1990s home
Casement windows in uPVC or aluminium. The era is characterised by simple architectural lines and standard casement configurations, and modern casements suit the proportions naturally. uPVC at typical fitted costs is usually the best value choice; aluminium suits homeowners wanting a more contemporary upgrade.
New build (post-2000)
Casement windows in uPVC, aluminium or composite, depending on the architectural language of the development. Picture windows and fixed glazing for feature elevations. Tilt-and-turn for upper floors and apartments where cleaning access matters. The flexibility on new builds is real, but match the developer’s original spec on the principal elevation for property value reasons.
Modern extension or renovation
Aluminium casement, picture or tilt-and-turn windows are usually the right answer. Slim sightlines and bespoke colour matching to the rest of the joinery deliver the architectural coherence that contemporary extensions need. Engineered timber casements suit extensions on traditional properties where continuity matters.
Flat or upper-floor apartment
Tilt-and-turn windows, almost always. The cleaning access from inside the room is essentially the only practical option on upper floors without external access. uPVC for budget projects; aluminium for premium or architecturally significant buildings.
Conservation area
Like-for-like replacement is usually the safest answer. Match the original style, material, glazing pattern and operation as closely as possible. For properties with Article 4 Directions, planning permission may be required even for like-for-like work; check with the local planning authority before ordering.
Listed building
Listed building consent is required for any window changes. The replacement is usually expected to match the original in every meaningful way: style, material, profile, glazing pattern and operation. Engineered timber from a heritage specialist is essentially the only acceptable material on most listed properties. Allow several months for the consent process before ordering.
Coastal property
Aluminium with marine-grade powder coating is the safest long-term answer. Salt air and driving rain accelerate failure on every other material; aluminium with the right coating handles the conditions for 30 to 40 years. Configuration depends on the property era, but the material choice is usually settled by the location.
Building Regulations, Part L, Part F and FENSA
Whatever style you choose, the regulatory framework applies the same way. Replacement windows are controlled fittings under the Building Regulations and have been since 1 April 2002.
Approved Document L sets the minimum thermal performance for replacement windows. The current edition incorporates the 2023 amendments and applies to dwellings in England. The limiting whole-window U-value for replacement windows is 1.4 W/m²K, or a Window Energy Rating of Band B or better. Quality modern windows in any of the styles above comfortably meet both routes.
Approved Document F covers ventilation. Trickle vents are now required on most replacement windows from 15 June 2022, even where the original windows did not have them. They are unobtrusive in practice and contribute to indoor air quality and reduced condensation risk.
Safety glazing rules apply to any window glass at low level. Glass within 800mm of the floor, or 300mm beside a door, must be toughened or laminated safety glass. Most reputable manufacturers fit this as standard.
Bedroom windows in dwellings with sleeping accommodation above ground floor level usually need to provide a means of escape: an unobstructed openable area of at least 0.33 square metres, with a minimum width and height of 450mm. This affects the configuration of the chosen style: a heavily mullioned window may not meet the standard, even where the style is otherwise appropriate.
Certification is handled by FENSA or CERTASS through registered installers under the Competent Person Scheme. A registered installer self-certifies the work and provides a certificate confirming Building Regulations compliance, usually within four to six weeks of installation. Conveyancers ask for this certificate when you sell.
Cost guide by style and material
Realistic 2026 fitted costs per window for UK homes, including standard installation but excluding scaffolding and any structural work.
| Style and material | Typical fitted cost |
| uPVC casement, standard size | £600 – £1,200 |
| uPVC casement, larger or coloured | £900 – £1,800 |
| uPVC flush casement | £900 – £1,800 |
| uPVC sash window | £1,000 – £1,800 |
| uPVC tilt-and-turn | £900 – £1,800 |
| Aluminium casement | £900 – £2,200 |
| Aluminium tilt-and-turn | £1,400 – £2,500 |
| Aluminium heritage steel-look | £1,500 – £2,800 |
| Engineered timber casement | £1,200 – £2,500 |
| Engineered timber sash | £1,500 – £3,500 |
| Bay window (3 sections, uPVC) | £2,200 – £4,500 |
| Bay window (5 sections, period style) | £3,500 – £6,500 |
| French windows (pair, uPVC) | £1,800 – £3,500 |
| French windows (pair, timber) | £2,800 – £6,000 |
Beyond the headline window cost, allow for scaffolding on upper floors (£400 to £1,500 across a project), any structural work needed (£500 to £2,500 per opening), and the cost of FENSA or CERTASS certification (usually included in the installer’s price). The complete project cost is the right figure to compare across quotes, not the per-window figure alone.
Common mistakes when choosing windows
Five mistakes appear repeatedly in UK window projects.
The first is choosing style based on personal preference rather than the property. A homeowner who likes the look of casement windows and replaces sashes on a Victorian terrace usually regrets it, because the elevation reads wrong even to people who do not consciously notice. Match the style to the property era; bring personal preference to the colour and finish choices instead.
The second is replacing a bay window with a flat configuration. The bay is usually a defining feature of the property, and replacing it with a flat run of casements typically damages the home’s character and value. The cost saving on installation is usually more than offset by the property value impact.
The third is ignoring planning constraints. Listed buildings always require listed building consent. Conservation areas with Article 4 Directions may require planning permission. Replacing windows without checking these constraints can lead to enforcement action and a requirement to reverse the work at the homeowner’s cost.
The fourth is treating trickle vents as optional or removable. They are required by Approved Document F on most replacement windows, and removing or permanently closing them defeats the ventilation strategy that allows the rest of the house to function without condensation and air quality issues.
The fifth is forgetting cleaning access on upper floors. Standard casement windows on the second floor of a town house can be inaccessible from outside without ladders or a window cleaner. Tilt-and-turn or modern sash windows that allow internal cleaning are usually the more practical choice on upper floors.
Decision summary: which style suits your home?
Working through the considerations above, the practical answer for most UK homeowners falls into one of a handful of categories. If you live in a Victorian, Edwardian or Georgian property, the answer is sliding sash windows, with the material determined by the property’s listed or conservation status. If you live in a 1930s semi, the answer is casement windows with a matching bay, in uPVC for value or aluminium for a contemporary upgrade. If you live in a period cottage, the answer is flush casements in timber or timber-effect uPVC. If you live in a 1960s to 2000s home, the answer is casement windows in uPVC or aluminium, with the choice determined by budget and architectural language. If you live in a flat or upper-floor apartment, the answer is tilt-and-turn windows. If you live in a contemporary new build or modern extension, the answer is aluminium casements, picture windows or tilt-and-turn, with the configuration determined by the architecture.
The right answer is rarely about chasing the most fashionable style or specifying the most expensive material. It is about matching the windows to the property, the planning context and the long-term plan, with the spend going where it genuinely makes a difference.
Frequently asked questions
1. What is the most popular window style in the UK?
Casement windows dominate the UK market, fitted on the majority of homes built since 1980. They are versatile, cost-effective and suit a wide range of property types. Sliding sash windows are the most common period-style replacement, particularly on Victorian and Edwardian properties.
2. Are casement windows cheaper than sash windows?
Yes, typically by a meaningful margin. Standard uPVC casements at £600 to £1,500 fitted are 30 to 50 per cent cheaper than equivalent uPVC sash windows. Timber sashes carry an even larger premium over equivalent timber casements, reflecting the more involved manufacturing.
3. What windows suit a Victorian house?
Sliding sash windows, ideally in engineered timber for listed or strict conservation properties, or in quality uPVC sash heritage range for other Victorian homes. The proportions and astragal patterns matter; replicate the original glazing pattern where possible. Casement and aluminium styles look wrong on Victorian principal elevations.
4. What is the difference between casement and flush casement?
A standard casement has a sash that projects slightly outwards from the surrounding frame when closed, creating a stepped profile. A flush casement has a sash that sits flush with the surrounding frame when closed, creating a smooth continuous outer face. The flush profile reads as more refined and traditional, suiting cottages and period-style properties; the standard profile is the workhorse mainstream choice.
5. Are sash windows worth it?
On the right property, yes. On Victorian, Edwardian or Georgian homes, sash windows are essentially the only style that reads correctly on the principal elevation. The cost premium over casements is real but earns itself back in property character and resale appeal. On 1930s and later properties, sashes look imposed; the premium is harder to justify.
6. Are uPVC sash windows acceptable in conservation areas?
Often yes, but it depends on the specific area and any Article 4 Directions in force. Quality modern uPVC sash heritage ranges replicate the proportions and astragal patterns convincingly enough to satisfy many conservation officers. For listed buildings and the strictest conservation contexts, engineered timber is usually required. Check with the local planning authority before ordering.
7. Do replacement windows need planning permission?
Usually no, on standard freehold houses outside protected areas. Like-for-like replacement is covered by permitted development rights. Listed buildings always require listed building consent. Conservation areas with Article 4 Directions may require planning permission. Flats and leasehold properties usually require freeholder consent under the lease.
8. Do new windows need trickle vents?
On most replacement windows, yes, under Approved Document F. Trickle vents are required even when the original windows did not have them, because modern airtight windows reduce the natural background ventilation that older windows provided. They are unobtrusive in practice and essential to controlling condensation.
9. Which window style is easiest to clean?
Tilt-and-turn windows clean from inside the room, which makes them easily the most practical choice on upper floors and balcony-less flats. Modern sash windows on quality systems also tilt inwards for cleaning. Standard casements can be cleaned externally if they fully open inwards, but upper-floor casements often need a window cleaner.
10. Which window style is best for flats?
Tilt-and-turn windows, almost always. The internal cleaning access is essential on upper floors without balcony or external access, and the controlled ventilation at the tilt position works well for security in apartments.
11. Which windows are best for noise reduction?
Acoustic laminated double glazing in any modern compliant style typically reduces external noise by 35 to 40 decibels. The window style itself matters less than the glazing specification; specify acoustic glass and quality compression seals on whichever style suits the property.
12. Which windows are most energy efficient?
Modern compliant windows in any of the mainstream styles achieve whole-window U-values of 1.2 to 1.5 W/m²K. Aluminium with proper thermal-break construction, quality uPVC, and engineered timber all perform comparably. The difference between styles is small; the difference between modern compliant windows and tired older ones is large.
13. Are aluminium windows colder than uPVC?
Not at quality level. Modern aluminium windows with proper thermal-break construction achieve whole-window U-values of 1.3 to 1.6 W/m²K, comparable to quality uPVC. The thermal break is the part to ask about on any aluminium quote; cheap aluminium without proper thermal breaks performs noticeably worse.
14. Do bay windows cost more to replace?
Yes, significantly. A bay window is essentially several windows combined with structural connectors and weatherproofing details, and the cost reflects this complexity. A typical 1930s three-section bay costs £2,200 to £4,500 fitted in uPVC; a five-section period-style bay can run £3,500 to £6,500 or more.
15. Should I choose double or triple glazing?
For most UK homes, quality double glazing is the right answer. Triple glazing earns its 25 to 40 per cent premium on passive-house projects, exposed locations, heat pump installations, and north-facing rooms in colder regions. Whole-house triple glazing is rarely the best use of budget for typical UK properties.
16. Can I mix window styles on one house?
Yes, particularly between principal and rear elevations. Many UK homes combine sash windows on the front (visible) elevation with casement windows on the rear, or use different configurations on extensions. The key is consistency within each visible elevation; mixing styles on the same façade usually looks accidental rather than considered.